This model highlights the legacy of Toshiie Maeda, a renowned military commander celebrated for his exceptional skills as a spearman and his role as the shogun's trusted right-hand man. Known by the name "Mataza," which he received on his coming-of-age day, he was a formidable force on the battlefield, feared for his expertise with the spear.
He governed the region known as Kaga (modern-day Ishikawa Prefecture), an area now famous for its gold leaf production. The gold stitching and design on the leather patch pay tribute to this traditional craft and industry. The buttons are adorned with a plum and pine motif—where "pine" is pronounced "matsu" in Japanese, also the name of his wife—while the plum represents his family's crest.
The yarn used in this denim is a unique, extra-thick count of 2.5, an unconventional choice for denim production. It is dyed using 100% pure indigo rope dyeing, achieving the darkest possible shade. The fabric is woven on an old-fashioned power loom, resulting in a rough texture, with the thick yarn woven as densely as possible.
The selvedge is crafted with a special technique, intertwining glittery threads, predominantly gold, to create a thick, striking edge. While this description may sound simple, the production process is anything but.
Rope-dyeing and weaving this thick, uneven yarn on a power loom follows the standard denim-making process. However, the sheer thickness of the yarn places immense strain on every step. The 25oz non-standard fabric exerts extraordinary pressure on the loom, leading to frequent thread breakages. Additionally, the thick weft yarn necessitates frequent shuttle changes, causing the loom to stop every few minutes.
The daily fabric output is minimal, and given the stress on both the fabric and the looms, the production team is understandably hesitant to continue. Yet, they have persevered, driven by a shared commitment to creating the finest heavy denim.
In other words, this is truly a rare and valuable denim.
However, the challenges don't end with the fabric; constructing jeans from this material is equally demanding. The weight and thickness of the fabric significantly complicate the sewing process. The strain on the sewing machines is immense, to the point where mass production of 25oz denim requires constant machine repairs.
In comparison, 21oz denim is often considered manageable or even "cute." But 25oz denim stands in a league of its own. The dedication and hard work of the craftsmen who bring this remarkable product to life are truly admirable.
The patch design features Toshiie holding his iconic long spear, with the Maeda family crest on the right, both stamped in gold. The patch also includes a limited edition serial number.
The theme of "gold" is prominent throughout the design, as seen in the samurai seagull stitching on the lower hip pocket. This is a fitting tribute to Toshiie, who ruled over the Kaga domain, now known as Kanazawa, a region famous for its wealth, once producing one million koku of rice.
The stitching uses thick gold lame thread, resulting in a striking and bold design. Similar to the previous Year of the Dragon model, the samurai seagull stitching and the red piss name tag are exclusive features of this limited special edition.
The buttons are also distinctive, including the "Kinmatsu button," familiar from other limited edition models, and the "Geisha Ume button," used on the Geisha model. Both buttons carry meanings unique to this edition:
- Toshiie's wife, "Matsu"
- The Maeda family crest, "Plum"
The bag fabric is made of red herringbone slush, adding to the overall luxury of the design. Red thread is used throughout the stitching, symbolizing the image of a renowned eccentric.
For those who recognize these details and think, "What?", they can be considered true jeans experts!
An additional unique feature is the placement of the coin pocket, which is on the opposite side from the norm, located on the left front pocket. This design choice is inspired by Toshiie, who was famously known as "the fork of the spear (left)."
- Iron-made gold-covered pine button
- Iron-made ume button
- Copper rivets
- Exclusive sheep leather patch
- Exclusive paper flasher
- Navy tag
- Made in Japan
- 100% Texas Cotton
- Regular Straight Cut
- 25Oz Selvedge Denim
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Silver-Gold Lamé Selvedge
- Raised belt loops
- Coin Pocket Selvedge Id
- Mid Rise
- Heavy Duty Bar Tacks
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Warp: indigo / Weft: white
- Triple chain stitching for rugged wear
- Limited Quantities
- Original Artwork Pocket Flasher
