When TCB starts a new project, a new meeting with a great vintage piece is always the trigger. Something they saw through show windows back in the days or some special vintage jeans that movie stars wore, etc. So, basically they look back at the clothings of my longing and I reproduce the items that they've longed for: That's basically what TCB brand is.
This time they took as reference a vintage Carhartte chore jacket from the 20's for the tag design. Carhartte vintage clothings are very popular in Japan as well as in the rest of the world and the famous heart-shaped tag was used on their garments between the 30's ~ the 40's but this Master Cloth one is even rarer, which was used only till the late 20's.
As for the fabric, the tension of the weaving is set relatively loose and we've chosen yarn count: 7 for the warps and 1 for the wefts. The difference of the yarn count between the warps and the wefts is a bit unusual for the denim weaving but speaking of this fabric at the microscopic level, it looks that the warps sit over the wefts on the surface of the fabric, which will eventually leads to wild, rainfall fades and the difference of the yarn count creates more clear looking twill lines for a 2*1 fabric.
It's dyed by synthetic indigo without any adulteration. A bit of derailment here but have you ever seen any denim, wabash, or whatever indigo-dyed vintage clothing faded in to some greenish color? That's brought by cheap synthetic indigo with some filler sort of ingredient mixed in. TCB's fabric this time is dyed by 100% synthetic indigo so it won't fade to the greenish color, which some might like but as far as the study goes, on the vintage Carhartte the greenish color is definitely not the characteristic of their fabric.
Compared to the fabric of XX jeans, the indigo tinge is more blueish. Before the 50's, the indigo color on denim was more blueish maybe because people back then wanted to lessen the cost of dyeing by lessening the number of indigo dyeing process. ( It's needed to do the dyeing process over and over again in order to achieve the dark indigo color. Put threads in the indigo pool→squeeze the threads and wait for some oxidation→do it again and again.)
*To those who have other TCB chore jackets, The fabric is softer than the one of Tabby's Jacket or of Black Cat Jacket but the blue tinge is very similar to Tabby's. The twill line is much more visible on the fabric of this new chore jacket so the more vertical, so-called rainfall fade is expected.
■Disclaimer All the buttons used on this Carhartte Chore Coat are change buttons so that we recommend you take them off before washing. In case of breakage or loss of the buttons, we don't offer the buttons for free of charge.